Other than not knowing the exact performance you're getting out of the bike, I'm not sure why you're frustrated based on your detailed description of what you've done and the overall result. We don't mind the "rambling", better that than a single sentence from someone who expects a magic bullet to solve their problem. Yes, it's normal to see a little dirty condensation out of the muffler drain holes while cold and warming up. I question the PO when he said he replaced the cam chain unless he tore down the top and bottom end, as the chain is endless as bought and the proper way to replace it is to leave it intact and slip it over the crankshaft while the bottom end is apart, but it can be done with a staked or press-fit master link if he took the shortcut. Synchronization of the carbs does make a big difference in off-idle performance as well as a stable idle, of course, and it can take some tweaking to get there since the carbs have separate cables to adjust and account for stretch and wear as time goes by. remember that these bikes are 50 years old and were not the perfect picture of carburetion when they were current models that hadn't sat for 25 years with fuel in the tank and carbs. JetmechWe don't mind the "rambling", better that than a single sentence from someone who expects a magic bullet to solve their problem. Sorry for all the rambling, just getting frustrated. Hope it’s within limits of the FSM limits Sorry for all the rambling, just getting frustrated. Will do a compression test later this week, both cold and warm. I feel like it should run better than it is. I have ridden it around my neighborhood, but it’s been too cold for me to get out for a longer ride. The idle RPM gage fluctuates a little between 1150-1200 rpm. Getting the carbs synced properly has been quite an adventure, and I’m not positive they are synced as well as they could be. New lead acid battery, and it hold 12.6 votes after a week of setting in the cold. New timing advance Assy, electronic ignition, and regulator/rectifier combo installed. The gas cap vent hole is clear, with new cap seal installed. Carbs rebuilt, floats at 25.6 mm, new Standard air filters, new intake boots and seals, new throttle shaft felt washers on carbs, throttles butterfly valves correctly installed and centered. When I start it, their is moisture and carbon spitting out the muffler drain holes, which may be normal? The spark plugs are not oily, just some carbon buildup as mentioned earlier. I haven’t checked the compressor yet, but it only has 300 miles on it since the rings were changed. The PO said he checked the cylinders to ensure they were okay, then honed the cylinders and put standard rings back in. I bought this bike in November, it is running, and the PO said he pulled the engine and inspected the heads, and cylinders.
The buildup is not too bad but troublesome to me. Thanks, I don’t know how much carbon is on the combustion area of the heads, but when I removed the spark plugs they have carbon buildup. Never tried this on a motorcycle in the past and won't do it now. There's is the old school trick we used on cars using water like this video BUT it carries the danger of too much added and hydrolocking the engine which usually bends a rod. Just follow the instructions on the can carefully. How much are you talking about? n most cases the use of an additive like Sea Foam will clear excess carbon.
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